Caught a wave today. Not much carving, but just steady riding.
I started up the swell and figured I’d have to bail at some point. I usually do, most mornings. Something special was happening this morning, however, and I was just cruising. It was one of those times where you just know you’re in the zone - about halfway through, I realized that I hadn’t had to stop, and likely wouldn’t have to. Everything was lining up, people were staying out of my way, I was getting the green lights where I never did. Sometimes when this happens, you think you’ve just jinxed it by thinking that you’re in the groove, but I knew that wouldn’t happen today.
I cut back as the wave closed out, wondering when I’d get a ride like that again.